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Starting from seed is also a cost saver. One pack of seeds can grow hundreds of lettuce heads, and may only cost a few dollars, whereas each sprout you buy will cost much more. When you start multiple seeds, you end up with more than enough. It becomes a great way to trade with garden friends. 

When starting seeds, it is important to note the size of the seed. Small seeds like those for lettuce, basil, and other leafy greens require light sprinkling of the seed, gentle covering of soil and watering until the seed roots. Larger seeds need to be buried 2-3 times the diameter of the seed in depth. They also need to be watered carefully until rooted. Note that drip lines work best for watering vegetable gardens since they do not disturb the soil much, and 90% of the water is directed to the vegetables compared to only 50-60% with sprinklers. 

When it comes to legume seeds, it would be advisable to use the paper towel method. As soon as the seed shows a root, plant the seed directly into the final destination. When legume seeds are transplanted as sprouts, the stems tend to break and the plant struggles to adapt.

Seeds can be started directly outdoors in your garden bed, pot, or ground. I like to start them indoors under controlled conditions with a little heat, consistent moisture and grow lights. Also, compared to outdoors, smaller pots or pods make water more accessible in the beginning stages; otherwise the water tends to flow down deeper than the young roots can reach. When seeds are monitored indoors, I am able to see which ones are strongest as they sprout. I also save time compared to growing directly outdoors because the seeds can be placed in controlled optimal conditions. Once they have developed into sturdy sprouts indoors, we move the plant outside into filtered sunlight for a week to allow adaptation. After the  hardening period, the plant it’s ready to be transplanted into its location in direct sunlight.

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All you need to do is move the soil with your hands and place the plant inside the hole. Firmly push down around the roots to ensure that you remove air pockets. If the soil is too loose, the plants may not survive. 

When you are planting tomato sprouts, experienced gardeners prune the lower suckers and plant the lower stem of the sprout underground. Roots will grow from the part of the stem buried underground. This method encourages a strong root base when the plant is being established. It will help the tomato plant to grow stronger in the long run. If you happen to save the suckers, you can use these cuttings to make extra copies of this plant.

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Where can you find a cutting? You probably already buy it at the grocery store when you purchase fresh herbs such as  basil, thyme, mint, or oregano. If you do not purchase at the store, ask a friend or neighbor who already grows the plant. Snip off 5-6 inches of the plant, and that’s a cutting.

The easiest way to copy a plant using a cutting is to soak it in clean water. Start by making a fresh cut at the bottom of the stem so that water can be absorbed. Remove most of the leaves from the stem except for 1-2 near the top of the plant. If there are any flowers or fruit on the cutting, remove those. This action diverts the plant’s energy into rooting rather than keeping the leaves, fruit, or flowers alive. Change out the water when it seems cloudy and wait for roots to appear. Not every cutting from the same plant will root, but you will get roots from some of them. Over time, you will learn to identify which cuttings will more likely root. It never hurts to soak them all. Once roots appear, plant into soil. You just created a new plant!

There are two other methods to propagate cuttings. One uses rooting hormones, a powder you purchase from the store. This is usually used for cuttings that have a woody outer layer, such as citrus, guava, avocado trees. Some fruits use this method to ensure an exact copy of the tree is reproduced since certain fruits do not produce the same plant as the fruit where the seed originated. This process is not difficult.  You need to choose newly grown cuttings, trim the bottom, remove any fruits, flowers, and leaves but 1-2, dip the bottom end into rooting hormone powder, and then insert into soil. One tip to prevent the powder from being rubbed off the cutting is to use a stick to clear the hole first. We use a chopstick to push in a vertical tunnel, then drop in the cutting, and firmly pack the soil around the cutting. Keep your cuttings in the shade or filtered sunlight (under a tree, for example)  and water to keep it damp, but not wet. Not all cuttings will take, but some will and you will have produced a clone of the mother. 

Another common method to propagate cuttings is called air layering; it is a process that essentially mimics nature. In sum, you are trying to root the cutting before removing it from the mother plant. If you are a beginner, you probably don’t want to start there. 

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Lettuce, kale, spinach, raddish, carrot, dill and basil are commonly grown vegetables and herbs that have small seeds. When I first planted lettuce seeds, I sprinkled them lightly on top of the soil and gently raked soil over them. Even with light watering, many of the seeds seem to be blown away. The top of the soil did not seem to stay wet enough to keep the seeds anchored to the location. On top of that, the seeds that sprouted ended up unevenly spaced and sometimes crowding each other. 
One really quick and easy method to start small seeds is to use the paper towel method. Instead of using ziploc bags, you may want to save any clear shallow plastic containers.  I saved up ramen noodle containers thinking I would find some use for them. I found that this method maximizes the seeds that sprout, and once they sprout they can be planted in your desired space.

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Leafy plants and herbs flower then produce seeds, a process called bolting. When the seeds from leafy greens or herbs have bolted, the end result is seeds in pods that are ready to be collected or replanted. For the least amount of effort, you can shake the ripened seeds into a paper bag. Gently remove the plant from the soil. Turn it upside down while holding it into the paper bag. Carefully shake the seeds off the plant into the bag. The seeds and some dried flower parts will indiscriminately fall. You can use your other hand to help release the seeds from the plant if they are not releasing.

Once you have gathered most of the seeds, pour them onto a plate or shallow bowl. Gently blow the chaff off the top of the seeds. It’s not necessary to remove every non-seed part. Simply pour the hundreds of seeds that remain into an envelope for future use. 

Legumes such as peas and beans are easy to save seeds. When the peas and beans are mature, release them from their seed pods. Allow them to dry out. 

Corn seeds are similar but you want to dry before harvesting the seeds. Once you have your mature corn, shuck the corn and hang it in a dark dry area to dehydrate. When the kernels are completely dry, they can be removed. Each kernel is one plant! 

Squash and melons require only an extra step of washing the seeds to remove any of the fruit. We use a small strainer to rinse the seeds and then spread them on a mesh cookie rack to dry. Make sure the seeds aren’t stacked on top of each other or they will dry stuck together. They can be flipped the next day. When one side Is dry, they are much less likely to adhere to each other and are easy to move around. 

Pepper plants are simple to save seeds but be aware that if they are hybrid and not heirloom fruit, your seeds will grow a different plant. If you want to save seeds, cut open peppers and allow the seeds to dry on a porous surface. Wait at least 2 days for the seeds to completely dry. 

Tomato seeds are enclosed in gel-like sacks that prevent the seeds from sprouting inside the tomato. Many seed savers use a fermentation process, however a quicker way is to remove the seeds and smear them across a mesh strainer. Allow them to dry on a paper plate or paper towel for at least 7 days. 

Note that for any plant but commonly for peppers and tomatoes, the seeds will only grow into a parent plant if they are open-pollinated plants. All heirloom plants are open-pollinated. 

Collect seeds into a paper envelope when dry. Note that it is best to use a paper container instead of plastic or a jar because any residual moisture from the seeds will dissipate inside paper; otherwise it can cause mold or bacterial growth over time. Additionally, envelopes keep the seeds in the dark and protect them from germinating. Tip: we save junk mail envelopes to store all our seeds because it means less junk into the waste cycle. It’s one more way to reuse. Label all your envelopes with month and date. Seeds are good for 3-5 years. 

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All you do is wet two sheets of paper towels and place the seeds in between them. If you do not have access to paper towels, newspaper cut to size would work too. Slip the paper-seed combination into a ziploc bag or other airtight plastic container. I’ve saved and reused old ramen containers; they have the added benefit of allowing me to stack them!  Place seeds near a well-lit window where the warmth and light will stimulate growth. You should expect to see sprouts if the seeds are alive.

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Pruning removes dying, dead, or diseased branches and growth, returning energy to the plant. Instead of keeping the old growth alive, the plant can redirect its energy toward new healthy growth. In some cases, pruning buds can also allow for the remaining buds to develop into larger fruits, rather than trying to support the growth of many more smaller fruits. If terminal ends of branches are removed, it results in a bushier looking plant rather than a long sparse one. Some gardeners prune drastically in order to shape a bush or tree. I tend not to interfere with the plant’s development for that reason since it may damage the plant or unnecessarily introduce disease. When you prune, you want to be careful not to shock the plant by cutting off too much of the healthy parts. When pruning is done correctly, it can also result in improved sugar distribution and therefore increased fruit yield in your garden.

When should you prune?

For plants and trees that bloom in spring, prune when the flowers start to die. If plants flower in mid- to late summer, pruning should occur in winter. Generally, you do not want to prune when the plant is actively flowering or fruiting; it is best to prune right before growth begins.

How do you prune?

When you make cuts, do it with clean disinfected sharp shears. You want one clean cut rather than multiple cuts, twists, or tugs. Clean, sharp cuts decrease the possibility of introducing disease from the shears to the new opening of your plant. For heading cuts, prune a quarter inch above the bud, angling down and away from it. Do not cut too close or steep as that may kill the bud. If you prune above a node with more than one bud, remove the buds facing inward. 

Why deadhead?

Deadheading removes flowers from the top of plants to prevent it from flowering and setting seed. This will encourage more leaf growth. 

How do you deadhead?

For removing flowers, make one clean cut  a quarter inch above the node right below the flower. If you grow a plant for leaves (such as basil), you want to deadhead as soon as you see flowering tips. It is usually also acceptable to pinch off the tips.

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